Ghost Stories, Literary Haunts, and the Best Month to Wander Key West

Every island keeps a few secrets. Key West keeps them in plain sight — in a turret window on Eaton Street, in a coral-rock fort on the Atlantic shore, in the cottages where American literature came to spend the winter. October is when the island stops pretending otherwise. The heat softens, the light goes gold by five o'clock, and the streets fill with costumes, bicycles and stories that locals have been telling for a century. Here is how to spend the month, and where to stay so the best of it is on your block.